There are dozens of wonderful neighborhoods in San Francisco, but I'm not going to tell you about all of them. What I have made here is simpler—just the places I’ve lived and worked these past thirteen years. The Mission, Potrero Hill, Bernal Heights, Dogpatch. This is an outline of a weekend like any other with my family, the way we do it.

There’s one reason we moved here, and that reason lingers in everything I recommend. To be outside. We wanted to be close to nature, wanted hills and good light, air that smells like sea salt and eucalyptus – and still be close to food that’s good, around smart people, and in a place where you don’t freeze.

The light here, it’s something. The hills pull you upward and at the top, in that light, you see things new. You'll see the fog, too. It's not like the fog you know. Every night it creeps in, massive and quiet, spilling over hilltops and tumbling down and overtaking all of the buildings, and even after all this time, I still watch it with wonder. I want you outside too, so you can see it for yourself—the way the city fits into the land, how the land shapes the city.

Below you will find the phases of the day and my ideas for how to enjoy them.

Morning

Run along the waterfront

You could bike or surf, too. The important thing is to just get outside and experience morning light someplace fresh. There are nearly 20 miles of continuous running paths and trails along the peninsula's coast line. Any section of it – or all of it – is the great way to see the city and earn the rest of the day. I recommend these routes.

Grab a coffee and a breakfast burrito

Sightglass Coffee on 20th Street is my all-around favorite spot for coffee and meeting a friend for chat. They have some outdoor seating and better, they open at 6:30am. If you're a coffee shop and not open by 7am, what are you even doing? For brewing at home, I buy Ritual's beans. You can find their cafe a 10 min walk to the west on Valencia Street.

More and more, I'm stopping by Marigold Café, just a few blocks south of Sightglass. It's tucked away in the back half of pretty flower shop. They have a few tables and their sidewalk landscaping is wonderful. Here's a [[San Francisco Recommendations#^1820d1|list of more coffee in the Mission]].

After, walk or cycle over to Breakfast Little and order an OG: Bacon or sausage, two eggs, cheese, garlic aioli, eggs, and tater tots. I prefer the sausage with avocado and sriracha, too.

Fill up on sourdough

Tartine Manufactory
If you prefer to brunch over burritos I recommend Tartine, the bakery famed for perfecting sourdough. There are two locations in SF, both in the Mission. We prefer the "Manufactory" because its easier to get a table and it's next to the Heath Ceramics factory and shop.

The dining room is dominated by large ovens so that you can smell the loaves as they're pulled out freshly baked. There is a full coffee bar and pastries and a full breakfast menu (as well as a pizza menu at night if you want to come back later for seconds). After brunch, we usually grab a loaf to go for the week's toast and sandwiches at home.

Shop a farmers' market

There are two good farmers' market options on Saturdays, the Alemany and the Ferry Plaza markets.

The Ferry Plaza is the classic strollable, Saturday market: good coffee, photogenic stands, and just enough options to put together lunch, plus stunning views of the sparkling waterfront and Bay Bridge. Be sure to look for the Hog Island tent where you can buy shucked oysters to eat on the spot.

More often we go to Alemany. It is massive and the variety of fruit and veg and flowers is impressive. A lot of things you've never seen before. I often recognize chefs from some of my favorite spots shopping for their kitchens. We always buy a couple dozen of extra-small Miyagi oysters from Bodega Bay Oyster Company's stall for a picnic later.

Alemany is harder to reach. There is a bus but it's 40-50 min from downtown. We usually take a car.

Lunch

Tacos in the Mission

The Mission is famed for its burritos but I must admit we prefer tacos more and there are just as many good options for those.

You'll find Tacos El Patron off the beaten path on the southern edge of the neighborhood. We love everything there, though their speciality is birria tacos with consomé.

There's also a taco truck we love called El Gallo Giro parked on the corner of Treat and 23rd, but unfortunately they're not around on the weekends. No reliable seating but there is a little park across the street with tables and a decent playground.

Here's a more complete list of noteworthy tacos and burritos in the Mission.

Oysters the Ferry Building

If you visit the Ferry Building farmers market then you might just stick around to have lunch at one of the restaurants inside.

Gott's Roadside
If you're looking for fast food I recommend this small chain of burger stands in Northern California, centered in Napa County. It's kind of the Bay Area's equivalent to Shack Shake, but the menu is more expansive (Dungeness crab sandwiches, etc).

Hog Island
But if you have time to wait in line a bit, we recommend putting in your name for a table at this Bay Area oyster institution. It's worth the wait to have a couple dozen raw sweetwaters, clam chowder, a pint of pilsner, and a view of the ferries coming and going.

Picnic somewhere beautiful

We're picnic people and always on the lookout for a spot where a good spread would make it perfect. Some of are go-to's are below. Plus, I can recommend a couple of places to shop for groceries. We think Gus's is the archetype of a great neighborhood market (the wine selection is also excellent). There is also Bi-Rite, which is an SF institution, but the prices might be a little too exorbitant for a casual picnic.

Here are some good places to spread out:

Baker Beach and Crissy Field
Just around the corner from Ocean Beach is the Presidio, an historic and expansive fort that has since been decommissioned. The centuries-long military use has essentially preserved some of the most splendid real estate in the city. There are also a couple of other wonderful beaches there: Baker Beach and Crissy Field. Both have good views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Marin Headlands (the hills on the other side of the bridge). If you're with kids, be sure to visit Tunnel Tops Park inside the Presidio, too.

Dolores Park
One of the prettiest neighborhood parks in the city and a real slice of SF. Lots of people spread out on blankets, dogs, rollerbladers, and vendors selling ice cream and edibles. Superb playground for kids. And a deceptively tall hill on the back side that gives a view of the city skyline. Just a half-block from Bi-Rite so super convenient to go run for more beer when you need it.

Dunes at Ocean Beach
When we're in Golden Gate Park we'll usually walk over to Hook Fish for fish burritos (the red cabbage combined with the breaded black cod is a revelation). Grab some bottles of Pacifico, too, and walk over to the dunes overlooking Ocean Beach (pictured above). The lines at Hook Fish can get long so you might want to use their website to order ahead for pickup.

Afternoon

Get out on the water

SF sits between the Pacific and the Bay, one of the largest natural harbors in the world. There are many ways to explore it, to visit its islands and coves, to have views of the city's skyline as well as the Golden Gate and Bay bridges. And it's not uncommon to see seals, sea lions, dolphins, rays and even whales, too.

Angel Island
Any time we have an out-of-town visitor we make sure to take them to Angel Island. Several times a day you can catch a ferry from the Ferry Building over to this state park in the middle of the Bay. There is a network of trails on the island which take you through several different ecosystems and panoramic views of the Bay and the Golden Gate Bridge. We like the Sunset Loop going clockwise, which first takes you up to the peak for sweeping views before you descend downhill. Before you circle back to the docks to catch the ferry home, we like to split off to Perles Beach and have a picnic. Be careful of the ferry schedule, you want to make sure you're back at the docks well before the last ferry of the day.

Farallon Islands
About 30 miles off the Pacific coast are a group of rugged, remote islands that form part of the Farallon National Wildlife Refuge. Known for their rich biodiversity, the islands host one of the largest seabird colonies in the U.S. and are a hotspot for great white sharks, seals, and whales due to nutrient-rich waters. Access is highly restricted for conservation, but it's possible to take a boat out and see the islands as close as you can get without stepping ashore. We travel with the Oceanic Society. It's an all day journey to go there and back, and if the water is choppy it can be an uncomfortable ride. But it's a real treat to return to SF through the Golden Gate at dusk. Dress warmly :).

Sailing
You might also consider booking a crewed sailboat. Bring your own cooler with lunch and drinks and do a circuit around the Bay. It's surreal to approach the Golden Gate Bridge from underneath. If you have a large enough group you could even charter the whole boat. We had a great experience with San Francisco Sailing Company.

Explore Golden Gate Park

Some compare Golden Gate Park to Central Park. The scale is similar, but the concept is different. I see it as a transitional space between the dunes and the ocean at Pacific Beach and the urban core of the city to the east. It's also a theme park filled with attractions. There are several museums, fields, and parks within the the park. Here are some of my favorites.

Botanical Garden
A living museum of plants from around the world. Spanning 55 acres, it features over 8,000 different plant species, with collections that thrive in San Francisco's unique climate. Everything from redwoods to rare cloud forest plants from Central and South America. There are several themed gardens like the ancient plants garden and the fragrant magnolia collection. It's a great spot to picnic.

California Academy of Sciences aka Cal Academy
Excellent science museum that houses an aquarium, planetarium, rainforest dome, and natural history exhibits. Its living rooftop, covered with native plants, is a striking sight. One of our kids' favorites.

Car-free JFK and the Great Walkway
During the COVID pandemic, a grassroots movement led to closure of JFK Drive and sections of the Great Highway to cars, creating a safe, pedestrian- and cyclist-friendly zone that winds through the park and then along Ocean Beach. Currently the Great Highway is only closed to cars on weekends.

Casting Ponds
I didn't know such things existed before I moved to SF: a dedicated space for fly fishing practice. Surrounded by eucalyptus trees, this is a serene spot to practice casting. It's open to the public and completely free. You do need to bring your own rod.

de Young Tower
The de Young Museum’s Observation Tower offers panoramic views of San Francisco, Golden Gate Park, and the Pacific Ocean. Just walk into the museum and follow signs for the tower. No need to buy museum admission to enter, tower access free. Though, the museum is worth visiting, too.

Japanese Tea Garden
The oldest public Japanese garden in the U.S., it has everything you would expect: beautifully manicured landscapes, koi ponds, rock gardens, and pagodas. You can enjoy cherry blossoms in spring and maple leaves in autumn. We like to linger at the tea house and munch on sandwiches and cookies.

Hike to a good view

Crosstown Trail
The 17-mile urban hiking and biking route that spans San Francisco from the southeastern to the northwestern corners. Designed to be easily accessible, it strategically overlaps with public transportation routes, allowing hikers and cyclists to tackle sections of the trail without needing a car.

Weaving through city streets, parks, stairways, and nature areas, the trail offers a unique way to explore San Francisco’s diverse neighborhoods and green spaces, providing a mix of scenic views, challenging terrain, and hidden gems along the way. We've only done it once, tackled it in four sections with our kids over a few weekends, but we known friends who have completed it in one day without kids. It's really fun to drop in and out of different neighborhoods, sampling food in each, before climbing out to enter a different natural space.

Fort Funston
This has got to be the prettiest dog park in the world. On the southern end of San Francisco, you'll find dramatic dunes and cliffs that form the backdrop to a popular spot for dog owners, offering trails, wide beaches, and scenic coastal views where dogs can roam off-leash. The park’s steep cliffs covered with succulents make for a particularly unique space to explore.

Marin Headlands
A vast open space that offers a variety of outdoor activities with breathtaking coastal views. In any other state, this space would be a National Park. We can't believe it is literally on the other side of the bridge.

It's popular with cyclists, but if you're on foot, start with a hike along the Coastal Trail, where you find vistas of the Pacific Ocean, rugged cliffs, and the bridge. We usually stop at Rodeo Beach, a good spot for beachcombing and picnicking. You can also poke your head into the Headland Center for the Arts to see what they're exhibiting.

Shop on Valencia

Baggu
One of the only four shops in the world for the beloved, cult-favorite bag maker.

Bernal Cutlery
Culinary shop known for its exceptional selection of hand-sharpened knives and expert knife-sharpening services.

Dog Eared Books
A cozy, beloved independent bookstore offering a wide range of new and used books, with a focus on local authors and diverse, offbeat titles.

Gravel & Gold
Boutique for unique clothing, accessories, and home goods, all designed with an emphasis on craftsmanship and personality. It's my first stop for Mother's Day gifts.

Open Editions
Art and design shop with excellent selection of stationery and unique paper goods.

Paxton Gate
One-of-a-kind. Shop taxidermy, gems macabre oddities, plants, and other natural science-inspired gifts.

Ritual Coffee
One of my favorite coffee shops and my go-to source for beans to grind and pour-over at home.

Binge on art

There are several excellent art collections in the city. Below are some of our favorites.

Asian Art Museum
This museum in San Francisco houses one of the most comprehensive collections of Asian art in the world, spanning 6,000 years and a diverse range of cultures, from ancient to contemporary pieces.

Balmy Alley
Iconic block-long alley in the Mission featuring a constantly changing collection of murals by local artists. Afterwards, stroll down 24th Street, one of the most lively and colorful corridors in the city that reflects the city's deep Hispanic heritage.

de Young Museum
Inside Golden Gate Park, showcases American art from the 17th through the 21st centuries, along with modern and contemporary art, textiles, and international pieces. Make sure to visit the the top of the observation tower, plus the café is not a bad option to have lunch inside the park.

Exploratorium
An interactive museum that blends science, art, and human perception, offering hands-on exhibits to inspire curiosity and learning. A must-visits for kids, fun for adults, too.

Legion of Honor
A beautiful Beaux-Arts building housing a collection focused on European art, featuring paintings, sculptures, and decorative arts, including a renowned collection of Rodin sculptures.

Minnesota Street Project
Not a museum, but a bunch of large warehouses full of smaller, private galleries to view works by emerging artists.

SFMOMA
Seven floors housing an expansive collection of modern and contemporary art, the temporary exhibitions are usually excellent, and the café and gift shop are particularly good.

Happy Hour

Beer

Fort Point
Pour house for a local craft brewery with a modern vibe you typically don't find a in a beer joint. Pretty decent bar food, too.

Radhaus
Bavarian-inspired beer hall inside a former shipping warehouse inside Fort Mason. Stunning views of the bay, and classic German snacks like pretzels and sausages.

Shotwell's
This is a classic San Francisco corner bar. Vast selection of local and imported craft beer and cider. There's also a jukebox and pool table which makes it a fun place to crash with friends before or after dinner. I think it has one of the prettiest "parklets" in the city.

Cocktails

Cavaña
Rooftop bar on the top of LUMA hotel. Beautiful indoor/outdoor space with views in every direction. The bar snacks are also excellent. It can get crowded at night, so you have the best chance of finding a place to sit at happy hour. Access via the elevator near the hotel's valet.

Cityscape Bar
San Francisco has only a few bars with great views from above, this is one of the better options. The decor and the menu are just OK, but it's situated up on the 46th floor of the Hilton Union Square and the panoramic views of the city are spectacular. It's particularly dramatic at sunset.

Moongate Lounge
Elegant bar located above Mister Jiu’s in Chinatown. The room is unusually stylized: mid-century design with hints of traditional Chinese architecture like circular portals, red velvet booths, and brass lotus chandeliers.

The Royal Cuckoo
An excellent dive. Cozy, dim except for many red lights, church pews, and usually great music – often a DJ, sometimes an organist.

Trick Dog
This spot is on every list of America's best cocktail bars. Every few months they go to great lengths to remake the cocktail list and produce a beautiful printed menu that is a piece of art in of itself. Plus, if you're runner, you should check out their run club while you're in town. Lots of the staff participate and everyone is super welcoming.

True Laurel
Contemporary space with poured-concrete and cobalt accents. Almost always has a great vibe. We love the Bay leaf martinis and the crispy Hen Of the Woods mushrooms with sour cream.

Wine

Ruby Wine
Wine shop where you can buy bottles off the shelf and for a small fee uncork and enjoy at a window seat. A bit of a scene.

Verjus
Wine bar and restaurant in one of San Francisco's most charming downtown neighborhoods, Jackson Square. There's a bar set inside of a wine shop with places to stand or sit while you drink wine by the glass, or wait for a table in the dining room next door and enjoy a bottle with a menu of savory dishes. Intimate and classy space.

Dinner

Go-to's

Bon, Nene
A Japanese comfort food restaurant in a modest corner storefront, ran by a kind woman named Miu. She's beloved by all of the neighbors, so much so the place can feel like a cafeteria where the locals loyally go for lunch daily. I like the mentaiko spaghetti (tossed with cured cod roe mix, seaweed, shiso leaf, and a creamy buttery sauce) and my kids love the veggie curry. Be sure to try the frozen beer.

Buddy
Cozy and welcoming neighborhood bar and café known for its menu of natural wine by the glass and creative seasonal dishes. We love the chorizo and clams, strawberries with burrata, radish crudité, and trumpet mushrooms.

Heirloom Cafe
Our regular Good Meal. The ambiance and welcoming staff are something special, and together make it a beloved spot in the neighborhood. The wine list is excellent. Tell Amy and Stephen we sent you.

Rintaro
A Japanese izakaya in the Mission that offers us a cozy setting with a menu focused on seasonal ingredients and traditional techniques. Its house-made noodles and selection of sake are excellent.

Date night

Bix
A classic ambiance reminiscent of a 1930s supper club with live jazz and piano music. The vibe is white table cloths and too many martinis.

Cotogna
Located near Jackson Square, Cotogna specializes in rustic Italian fare, offering house-made pastas, wood-fired pizzas, and locally sourced meats and vegetables. Refined without feeling stuffy.

Foreign Cinema
California cuisine in a former theatre converted into a bar and restaurant. There are both indoor and outdoor dining rooms. Outside, classic films are screened while you're dine. Inside is a fireplace that we always try to get a table next to if possible. There is also a small bar in the back where I sneak to when I'm alone just to play chess on my phone with a glass of wine.

Zuni Cafe
A San Francisco institution known for its California classics, particularly the legendary brick oven-roasted chicken served with a side of Caesar salad. Great bar, too, if you just want a drink before a show or dinner elsewere.

Special occasions

SF is one of the world's capitals of paying too much for dinner. If you want a superlative meal, you'll find a long list in the Michelin Guide. We're not hounds about pursuing Michelin stars, but here are a few excellent places that aren't too uptight.

Angler
Located on the Embarcadero, Angler specializes in fresh seafood prepared using open-fire cooking techniques. There is a large dining room with views of the open kitchen, or a cozier bar and dining room off the back.

House of Prime Rib
A beloved institution in San Francisco, House of Prime Rib serves up roast beef with all the trappings you'd expect: creamy mashed potatoes, creamed spinach and Yorkshire pudding. It's an old-school atmosphere where old-school San Franciscans celebrate special occasions, or just want a charming fireplace to be near when drinking martinis and old-fashioned's.

Quince
Located in Jackson Square, Quince is a Michelin three-star restaurant focused on seasonal Californian cuisine. Everything is fresh and beautiful. This is a very elegant spot, but it always feels approachable. It's great choice for celebrating a very special occasion without feeling overly formal.

Evening

Sweat and plunge

Archimedes Banya
In New York, I was a usual at the Russian & Turkish Baths on 10th Street. Archimedes is my SF counterpart. It has two large Russian 'banyas', a sauna, plunge pool, hot tubs, and steam room. Some areas are clothing optional. There is also a cafeteria where you can play chess, watch sports, drink pilsner and nibble of vaguely Eastern European snacks like pickles and sausages with cabbage and a side of mustard. There are also a couple of rooftop patios where you can cool off and glimpse the city skyline and the Bay Bridge, both twinkle spectacularly at night.

Catch a game

Oracle Park
Located along the waterfront, Oracle Park is the home of the San Francisco Giants and is renowned for its stunning views of the San Francisco Bay and the Bay Bridge. When we're bringing the kids we don't bother to buy good seats, we sit up in sections 305-310 where there's least wind and the best views of the Bay. If you're lucky, our division rivals – the Dodgers or the Padres – will be in town. Garlic fries are a must order.

If baseball isn't in season, try walking south down to the Chase Center. Our basketball team is usually pretty good, too. :)

Dance

Bar Part Time
There are not enough places to dance in San Francisco, but we do have one thing you probably haven't seen before: dive bar meets natural wine meets dance floor. Long bar, private booths, commercial fridges of wine bottles you can grab yourself, and usually a great DJ set.